The reasons behind cannabidiol (CBD) consumption boil down to two basic needs: the need to feel good and to look good. At the intersection of these is skincare, a rapidly growing segment that’s predicted to grow to $1.2 billion worldwide by 2027.

Back home, CBD-infused cosmetic and beauty products are flying faster off shelves. Of the 8 million Brits who purchased CBD products in 2020, over a million were bringing home skincare products. By 2024, skincare brand J’Tanicals predicts that CBD-infused cosmetics will account for 10 percent of the nation’s skincare market.

Yet behind the buzz for self-care’s new darling, some concerns about CBD’s effects on the skin remain. Our skin is an incredibly delicate and complex organ. Sensitivities vary wildly by individual–what clears one complexion may cause breakouts on another. 

Finding a regimen that works is normally a game of trial and error. How does CBD actually figure into the equation?

The Fight Against Stress And Damage

Antioxidants fight free radicals that stress and damage cells. On our skin, free radicals wreak havoc by targeting collagen. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, and functions as a support structure for muscles, tissue, and our skin. Blemishes, hyperpigmentation, and sagging are all linked to collagen breakdown.

Among CBD’s purported benefits, the compound’s antioxidant property is one of the most talked about. Cannabidiol has more powerful antioxidant effects than Vitamin C and E, both of which see heavy use in skincare. It’s a veritable powerhouse of antioxidant compounds. CBD contains at least twenty known antioxidants and cannflavins, an antioxidant that can only be found in cannabis plants.

CBD may also directly influence collagen production. One animal study that looked at the link between bone recovery and cannabidiol found that it increased collagen levels, which led to better fracture healing. 

Quenching Parched Skin

Dry skin is a breeding ground for a myriad of skin issues. Aside from rashes and peeling, dehydration can lead to dermatitis and painful cracking. Dry skin cells also shrivel, which can give the appearance of folds and wrinkles.

Excessive dryness can be the result of harsh products that strip the skin of moisture, ageing, and sun exposure. During the colder months, the dry and cold winter air can also sap your skin of much needed water.

In the UK, the winter months can be particularly unforgiving on the complexion. “Winter conditions in the UK can be a perfect storm for dry irritated skin. Both the winter weather and central heating strip skin of moisture, and woolly winter fabrics can cause irritation,” says Justine Kluk of the British Association of Dermatologists.

Cannabidiol may help deliver much needed moisture back into your skin cells. One study on mice showed increased dermal water content after two weeks of topical CBD application. Topical CBD also typically comes in the form of lotions and oils, both of which can function as an emollient.

However, unless you’re a mouse, the data we have is far from definitive. CBD has also been found to have sebostatic properties, which means that they can reduce sebum production. Sebum is the body’s natural way of hydrating skin; less of it can exacerbate dryness, especially amidst colder climates. These contradictory activities highlight the need for more clinical trials.

Soothing Symptoms

Inflammatory skin diseases like eczema and psoriasis affect around two to three percent of the population in the UK–that’s approximately two to three million people. Yet despite its prevalence, patients often have to wait as long as a year to get an appointment with a dermatologist.

In search of faster relief, people are turning to alternative solutions like CBD. As cannabidiol’s anti-inflammatory properties get more attention, more are beginning to use it to treat symptoms at home. “The treatments are currently being bought over the internet,” says dermatologist and researcher Robert Dellavale.

Some physicians, like Hervé Damas at Grassroots Medicine and Wellness, have already integrated the cannabinoid into treatment plans for psoriasis. “Depending on the severity of the disease, I will use either topical creams or a combination of topical and systemic treatments,” says Damas.

Others remain more conservative in their approach. Dermatologist and skin cancer surgeon Nima Gharavi believes that while the existing data is promising and topical CBD is generally safe, results aren’t conclusive yet.

What’s On The Shelves?

From simple facial oils to night serums and bath salts, CBD can be worked into any step of your skincare regimen. The cannabinoid has even started finding its way into beauty products such as foundations, lipsticks, and mascara.

Some products target specific applications, such as tattoo care. Keeping newly inked skin–which in essence is a wound–moisturised is key for proper healing. CBD’s anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties can help skin recover and soothe the itching that comes from the scabbing process.

Sunscreen is also another type of skincare product that benefits from an infusion of CBD. The angry, painful red of sunburnt skin is the result of the body’s inflammatory response against UV damage. CBD can help calm the burn, according to Dellavale.

When Shouldn’t I Use CBD For My Skin?

Skincare is about balance. However, maintaining that balance can be tricky. There are five skin types: normal, oily, dry, combination, and sensitive. What works for one type can irritate another. Type can also change with time. Some individuals are sensitive to ingredients like fragrances and sulphates, both common additions to skincare products and cosmetics.

When it comes to skin safety, CBD currently falls within a grey area. We don’t have enough data to conclude that the cannabinoid should be avoided by certain skin types. While there have been reports of itching, these cases have been far and few in between.

The general consensus of healthcare experts is that CBD is relatively safe for topical use. Dermatologists recommend doing a patch test beforehand, and stopping when irritation occurs. Users should also ensure that a product contains exactly what it says on the label. Irritation from CBD products usually don’t come from the CBD itself, but from unknown substances and impurities. “The problem is, we don’t know what’s in them or who made them or how good they are. That’s going to be a problem for a while”, says dermatologist and professor Todd Anhalt.

While the industry is working on improving quality control for CBD, products with questionable formulations can still end up in the baskets of consumers. Only purchase from reputable brands, and consult your healthcare provider before committing to a skincare product.

The information provided regarding CBD is for educational purposes only and should not be construed as medical advice. CBD products have not been evaluated by regulatory authorities for the treatment, diagnosis, or prevention of any disease. Always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before starting any new supplement or health regimen to ensure it is safe and appropriate for your specific medical conditions.